Climbing the Via Ferrata in the Dolomites
November 3rd, 2010 Posted in What to doWelcome! If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to our RSS feed. Thanks for visiting! =)
I stared at what looked like a giant metal playground mounted on the side of the mountains, and was instantly sold.
Via Ferrata on Flickr by Fabio Trucchia (Trocci)
Inner child awoken, the notion of scrambling up ladders, crossing bridges and scaling rock faces was better than candy. I was ready to give it a go – right then and there.
Unfortunately for me, though, I wasn’t actually looking at the Real Thing.
Rather, my mind was salivating in high gear from the glossy spread inside the Adventure Travel Magazine that was sitting on my lap. So scaling the Real Thing just wasn’t going to be in my cards that afternoon.
But the seed was planted, and my appetite for the Via Ferrata was awoken – BIG TIME.
What is a Via Ferrata?
The Via Ferrata (plural – vie ferrate) is basically a mountain route supported by permanent fixtures like heavy gauge wire, ladders, stemples and bridges. Vie Ferrate range in difficulty level from an easy scramble to a highly technical hardcore excursion requiring a high degree of physical fitness and experience. Given the wide range, there’s really something for everyone — provided at a base level you like mountains and that you kind of enjoy climbing things. Oh, and that you’re really not all that acrophobic.
Via Ferrata on Flickr by crisymay
Easy enough criteria, right?
Don’t worry, even if you ARE afraid of heights, you can muster your way past that. I did. 
History of the Via Ferrata
While the Via Ferrata might look like a playground to us these days, they served a highly pragmatic purpose in their time. Safety.
Vie Ferrate, meaning “Iron Road” in Italian were built during the First World War as a means of providing protection to the soldiers scaling high mountain routes. At those altitudes, a mis-step without support would have been fatal, and with the cold temperatures and high elevation, it was difficult to traverse some of those regions.
After the wars, the Club Alpino Italiano took over route maintenance and creation of new routes, giving us the smorgasbord of climbing fun times that we have available recreationally today. And if you’re in the Cinque Torri region, you can actually visit an open air museum with many of the relics from World War I situated along side many of the Ferrate.
Climbing the Via Ferrata
There are over 130 routes to choose from in the Dolomites, and it’s best to go with a guide. Weather conditions change so often in the Dolomites region that you want someone with experience to read the conditions and let you know what’s safe and when to turn back. I witnessed this first hand the second time I climbed in the Dolomites, when my guide Lucas made the call for us to turn around part way through the ascent. He was absolutely right because we barely made it down before we were in whiteout conditions. Phew!
If you climb with a group, all safety equipment will be provided. This typically includes a harness to which two carabiners are attached, as well as a safety helmet. You clip both your carabiners into safety wire when you climb – having the two allows you to switch safely from one roped section to another.
If it’s your first time there are a few beginner routes most people take:
The Newbie routes
Averau – This short Via Ferrata has only a 100m ascent, so it is considered a good beginner route to get a taste of the Via Ferrata experience. You can access Averau via a ski lift and short hike, along the way to which you’re treated with fantastic views of the Cinque Torri (right in front of the ferrata), and wide sweeping views of the surrounding mountain ranges.
Piz da Cir V – Gran Cir – Located close to Colfosco and only a few hours in duration, this is another popular introduction route. On Gran Cir, most of the route can actually be hiked, with just a few sections supported by cable. While Gran Cir is not the highest peak in the area at a height of 2,592m, you’re still treated to a great panoramic view.
Got the hang of it? Here are some can’t-miss classic Via Ferrata Routes in the Dolomites.
Classic Via Ferrata Routes
Brigata Tridentina – Considered one of the most spectacular ferratas in the Alta Badia region, Via Ferrata Brigata Tridentina is not for the faint of heart. This long medium difficulty route starts out with some ascent slabs and past some nice waterfalls but quickly moves to a large exposed traverse across a steep rock face anchored by a long rope chain. After that, scramble up a chimney before crossing one of the route’s highlights – a suspension bridge perched over a chasm. At the end of all of this treat yourself to a rest at Pisciadù hut. Brigata Tridentina was built by the 3rd Brigade of the Italian Army in 1967 to support the hut because it was otherwise so difficult to access.
Via Ferrata Tridentina on Flickr by Peter Stevens (Nordique)
Marmolada (West Ridge) – Considered one of the ultimate Vie Ferrate Routes akin to the classic route on Mont Blanc, Marmolada is a difficult climb involving a 450 metre ascent on exposed terrain plus a long hike to reach the Ferrata. But along the way, you get to strap on crampons and traverse a glacier – the only one in the Dolomites!
Via Ferrata Marmolada on Flickr by Alberto De Giuli
Giovanni Lipella (“Lipella”) – Accessed by first going through an old World War I tunnel before scaling a long wall stretch, Ferrata Lipella is another must-do in the region both for its rich historical significance and for the stunning mountain scenery. The tunnel is fairly long – 500 metres while increasing in elevation by 120m, so you will need a torch to get past this section. At the end of the tunnel, make your way along the west face of Tofana di Rozes along steep steps and ledges before reaching the summit of the smaller peak at 3,027m. Budget a full day for this climb, which is considered long and of medium-hard difficulty.
My personal experience
I finally had the chance to get my paws on the rock one fine fall day. I was climbing with Dolomite Mountains, a company based in the Alta Badia region that specializes in adventure travel. We were all newbies, so the Ferrata we tackled was Averau. Early in the morning, we left Cortina and headed for the ski lift that took us to a path that wound its way to the start of the Ferrata. Harnesses were pulled out of rucksacks and passed to all of us, followed by safety helmets.
After we put on our gear, we were inspected by the guides, and one by one got into start position for the climb. And standing there waiting to climb I was both giddy with excitement and freaked out of my mind (remember I did mention I was afraid of heights). While this ferrata was somewhat short, we WERE some hundreds of metres off the ground, the ledge we were standing on wasn’t all that wide, and I have been well documented as a klutz. But before I knew it, my turn to climb was up, so I hurriedly clipped my carabiners into the metal safety rope, planted both hands on handholds above me, stepped one foot onto the rock and heaved myself up.
The first thing that struck me was how clunky my boots felt on the rock. I suppose because I’d gotten used to rock climbing shoes (which are dainty and precise in comparison), I found myself trying to plant my big boots on footholds that would have been completely solid on a rock climbing wall, but would leave me sliding and kicking bits of gravel off the wall into some very disgruntled faces (sorry!) The whole thing turned into some sort of arm workout and I mostly hauled myself upwards. Not only was it rather inefficient, but because it was also somewhat windy and we were all dressed warmly, it wasn’t like I could even be impressing anyone with my mini-guns. Sigh.
Now mind you, it wasn’t that there weren’t better holds around; I just had to change my mentality of what was usable. With some helpful choice words from Marcello, one of the guides, I did quickly get over the logistical roadblock to my movement upwards. Quickly I got the feel for what footholds would work, and I was soon scrambling up alongside everyone else at a good clip.
Ferrata Averau is broken up so you’re not climbing continuously. In between are short hiking sections where you’d unclip, walk and reclip. Focused just on the rock, and moving up, I climbed – until all of a sudden I went over a ledge and saw everyone else standing there. I’d made it past my first Via Ferrata!
But there was still more to go, and another 20 minutes of switchbacks later on a walkable hiking path, we’d made it up to a beautiful lookout point.
Walking up the switchback trail. Photo by Kathy Dragon.
Our reward? A stunning vantage point from where we were greeted with views of the Tofana mountains.
On the way down, we took an alternate route, and I got to climb down stemples for the first time. Stemples are ladder steps mounted onto the rock. Something about that is much easier going up than down. Even though we were clipped in, I was nervous about foot placement. Mental images of me slipping, getting stuck in a stemple, and having to be rescued out fluttered through my mind. I also became aware of how cold it was at that altitude. Gloves would have been a really good idea for climbing!
After watching a few people make it down before me, it was my turn. Gripping tightly, I made my way down.
But before I knew it, my feet were planted back on a regular trail. We had finished the whole climb.
Oh wow.
Verdict?
Totally loved it, even with the moments of fear. If you even have the slightest curiosity, just go! Give it a shot! Now that I’ve had a taste, I can’t wait for my next trip back for more climbing.
To do this yourself:
I went on my trip with Dolomite Mountains, and I enjoyed it. It was clear all the guides were passionate about the sport, and many of them climbed on their own during off season.
Dolomite Mountains
Call: +39 0436 7320 / +1 347 826 6271
Email: info@dolomitemountains.com
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